Monday, July 27, 2009

Can Peter Dundas, Pucci's new artistic Director fill Emilio's shoes?

Peter Dundas first collection for Pucci F/W 09


Matthew Williamson's last collection for Pucci S/S 09


Pucci 1960s

Emilio Pucci at his workshop 1960's


Last September Norwegian-born designer Peter Dundas was appointed new Artistic Director of Pucci replacing the "king of boho" Matthew Williamson.

The house of Emilio Pucci, back in the 50's and 60's, was best known and loved for its prints and lightweight fabrics. Emilio Pucci, the son of a wealthy Italian aristocrat, revolutionized the fashion world by introducing lightweight casual wear in bold prints in the early 1950s. His use of clashing colors was so unique that it made his creations stand out from that of other designers of his time. Soon he was declared the King of Casual Couture with a fan following that was almost unheard of at that time. Celebrities like Marilyn Monroe, Lauren Bacall and Jacqueline Kennedy were seen in Pucci clothes.
As most of you know today scarves from his early years, along with vintage Hermes scarves, have become highly collectible items.

Knowing about about the history of Emilio Pucci and seeing his early creations makes me wonder and seriously question the direction of Pucci with the appointment of Peter Dundas. Dundas showed his first catwalk collection for Fall/Winter 09. It was somber, non identical (a mixture between Rodarte and DVF) and almost grunge - Nordic, to say the least. Now this might as well be Mr. Dundas' style and were it carrying his name , it might even evolve into something hip, but at this point I am wondering how much dissolution is good for a brand? Why turn a hot, colorful, Italian brand into a cool, grungy Nordic affair? Admittedly, after the 50s, 60s and 70s, the brand never lived up to it's hip reputation again. Even with Matthew Williamson as Artistic Director, it looked more Palm Beach than downtown hip, but in my opinion it did not need a 180 degree switch. It needed someone with the eye of Marc Jacobs or Proenza Schouler to shake it up, twist it and give birth to something everybody wants. I have some ideas myself...;))

Above some looks from Matthew Williamson's last collection for Pucci Spring/Summer 09 and Peter Dundas' Fall/Winter 09 Collection for Pucci.

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